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Dossier #3

Models on the Jetty: Form and Function of the Fashion Show Today

After several months of preparation in the bubble of the studio, clothes suddenly come to life in the public sphere and transform into a desirable object/image in the frenetic atmosphere of the fashion show. The main parameters of fashion shows, with their models, catwalks, looks and music have hardly changed since these came into being at the beginning of the 20th century. However, the history of the genre boasts a few acts of bravery as seen in Thierry Mugler’s grand, mainstream shows, Alexander McQueen’s dramaturgy and John Galliano’s exuberance. Faced with the pressures of a sustainable fashion model and the digital industry, which have challenged the rhythm of collections as well as the way fashion images are consumed, such major productions seem like a thing of the past. Aude Fellay has interviewed several designers for this special feature dedicated to the issues facing contemporary fashion shows. Although they all condemn the industry’s overproduction and the image effects, at the expense of the clothes, that surround fashion shows, they nevertheless remain essentially convinced of the relevance of this model as a means to share a brand’s vision. Featuring a presentation of scenography projects from HEAD – Genève’s Department of Interior Architecture for the school’s 2019 fashion show and an aside written by Ambroise Tièche about the word of mouth which a fashion show triggers with specialists and laypersons, this special feature addresses a model that is more than willing to reinvent itself.

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  • departmentarchi. intérieurarts visuelsdesign mode
  • subjectcorpscapitalismemodenumériqueperformance
  • published on november 07, 2019
  • permalink https://www.hesge.ch/head/issue/en/issues/issue-3-models-jetty
  • licence CC BY-SA 4.0
informationsback to publication
  • Défiler le défilé

    by
    • Christophe Kihm

    In this introductory text, Christophe Kihm addresses the formal logic of the fashion show. The French term for fashion show, “défilé”, refers to a narrow pass in a mountain which people walked through in single file, as well as – by metonymy – the actual act of walking across the pass. Based on this, a “défilé” refers to time rather than space. However, through the construction of an image of this lapse of time to a specific rhythm, the “défilé” also produces its own space.

  • The Fashion Show at the Heart of Debate

    by
    • Aude Fellay
    • Cosima Gadient
    • Emilie Meldem
    • Marlie Mul
    • Faustine Steinmetz

    The recent climate change protests have affected the Fashion Weeks. The event in Stockholm was cancelled, while it was symbolically buried by the Extinction Rebellion activists in London. In other words, it may be time for fashion shows to turn a new page. Through four interviews with fashion designers Faustine Steinmetz, Emilie Meldem, Cosima Gadient (Ottolinger) and artist Marlie Mul, Aude Fellay reflects on the main criticisms as well as the undeniable benefits of this performative model, which concentrates and consumes plenty of energy. With her interlocutors, she evokes the power of the fashion show’s creative synthesis and speculates about the future of this presentation mode.

  • A Piecemeal Conversation on Bus No. 6 on 8 November

    by
    • Ambroise Tièche

    Invited by the Fashion Department to evoke the fashion show, artist and Visual Arts teacher Ambroise Tièche imagines a conversation that drifts from one thread to the next following a Geneva bus route.

  • Scenographies Projects for HEAD's Fashion Show 2019

    by
    • Leonid Slonimskiy
    • Bertrand Van Dorp

    For the first time, the Department of Interior Design has been commissioned to design the scenography of the fashion show for the Fashion Design graduates’ collections which will be held on 8 November 2019 at Le Cube on the school’s campus in Châtelaine. Several students submitted their projects. Ultimately, after a competition in several stages, Paulo Jorge Dias’ project Poésie was selected. The head of the workshop, Leonid Slonimskiy, discusses a selection of students’ works for this scenography as well as issues of space, narration and image associated with a fashion show in an age when cameras are ever-present.